Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
